飲食革命正流行 : 大王菜舖子的認同實踐與文化生產

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Title:	飲食革命正流行 : 大王菜舖子的認同實踐與文化生產
Other Titles:	Ongoing food revolution : identity, practice and cultural production in Wang's organic shop
Authors:	邱元儂;Chiu, Yuan-Nung
Contributors:	淡江大學大眾傳播學系碩士班楊明昱;Yang, Ming-Yu
Keywords:	飲食;場域;文化中介者;認同實踐;Food;discourse;cultural intermediaries;Identity practice
Date:	2013
Issue Date:	2014-01-23 14:20:42 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	隨著有機飲食日益盛行，當代消費場域和飲食社群的建立也隨之轉變，尤以文化中介者的品味詮釋及建構區異，除了承載了時代記憶、文化氛圍等象徵意義，更在搭建創意活動平台的同時，賦予食物更多新意與價值。因此，本研究觀察近年新興有機銷售業者，如何以一個文化中介者的角色搭載各種論述，創造另類的銷售場域，並構築新飲食文化樣貌，進而使其中的意象創造有意識地感召消費者。　　本研究援引Bourdieu的「場域」理論，將有機飲食視為一文化場域進行探討，以橫向書寫方式闢理出新興文化中介者的銷售場域風貌呈現，並以大王菜舖子作為研究案例，透過部落格訊息以及有機農友的訪談，挖掘中介者如何建構或詮釋其實踐；又透過「換工者」的經驗受訪資料，討論此飲食社群是如何進行並被建立。從分析中探索有機銷售場域的鞏固與創造，並重新思考飲食空間的文化生產。　　研究發現，有機銷售場域中的行動中介者，藉由差異的銷售情境製造，使得購買有機食物的行為更具消費意義，並產生不同的象徵秩序，他們從飲食網絡的聚會或活動中召喚消費者的認同。透過分析觀察到，中介者多藉由「生機論述」、「品味風格」、「飲食社群引導」過程中，追求有機飲食場域新目標，甚至鞏固其社會地位，再者，「自發性的身體實踐」是這些新文化中介者得以佔據有機飲食空間重要地位的主要條件，他們掀起的不只是飲食革命，也喚起購買者的消費意識。　　從本研究案例－大王菜舖子分析發現，部落格不僅是滿載資訊的品味社群，也能成為有形食物網絡的無形價值，實體活動空間中人的互動、知識賦予、勞力交換等等，即是不同資本累積的結果。其中，此消費場域也生產了人們的「身體認同」與非金錢交易的「愉悅實踐」，透過食物的社交活動交換生活經驗，本研究看見，食物讓我們更能透視自己的身體，還能帶動一群人為食物有所行動。最後，食物社群常串連起各地的「旅人」，人們用「身體旅行」的方式讓自我與地方產生密切關係。如何在行動中賦予飲食場域意義生產的可能，並在追求情境體驗的同時保有主體意識的思索空間，是現代飲食革命所帶來的反思與契機。 The modern consumer field and diet community are changing with the increasing popularity of organic food, particularly taste interpretation and distinction buildup by cultural intermediaries. Cultural intermediaries not only carry over the symbols such as memory of the times and cultural atmosphere but also create new meanings and values for food by establishing the platform for creative events. This study analyzes the emerging sellers of organic food to investigate how to create alternative merchandize field, create new food culture, and use the imagery creation to inspire consumers by being the role the cultural intermediaries distributing various discourses. 　　This study is composed by horizontal perspective to reveal the merchandize filed of emerging cultural intermediaries. Bourdieu’s field theory is applied to study organic food as cultural field and “Wang''s organic shop” is the chosen case to investigate how cultural intermediaries construct the merchandize filed by social media such as blog and interviewing with organic farmers. In addition, the experience of “working travelers” is used to understand how this food community was funded. By discovering the creation and reinforcement of the filed of organic food merchandize, the cultural production in food space is re-thought. 　　It is found that the intermediaries in the filed of organic food merchandize create different symbolic order and signify organic food purchase by differentiating merchandize atmospheres. The intermediaries also gather the recognitions from consumers through the activities of food community. It is also observed that the intermediaries reinforce their social status and pursue newer goal in the filed of organic food merchandize by “vitality discourse”, “taste style”, and “inducing of food communities”. Moreover, the “spontaneous physical practice” is the critical factor which makes the intermediaries dominate organic food space. The intermediaries not only bring out the food revolution, but also arouse the consumption conscious. 　　It is discovered that blog is not only the taste community distributing information but also the intangible assets of organic food network. The interactions among people such as knowledge transfer and manpower trade are the results from various capital accumulations. This consuming field also builds up “physical identity” and “pleasure practice” (in terms of non-money trading) for people by exchanging life experience in social activities of food. This study witnesses the food helps us see through our bodies and stimulate people to make effort for the food. Last but not least, food communities connect travelers around the world. People create close connections among themselves and regions by “physical traveling”. The modern food revolution brings opportunities for us to introspect how to signify food field in practice and maintain subjective consciousness while pursuing scenario experience.
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