| 摘要: | 藝術社會學家阿諾德˙豪澤爾(Arnold Hauser)在所著之《藝術社會學》中提到：「藝術是透過集中反映生活整體性的方法來深入對象的內層結構。」所謂的藝術，乃是通過藝術家對於社會生活的認識與理解，以及由生活所激起的情感之折射，以反映社會生活的表現。同樣地，兼有造型與色彩的服飾在各個時期也有其顯著的文化特徵，包括風格、色系和工藝特徵等，它能幫助我們了解歷史留下的時尚文化傳統以及當時所反映的生活樣態。意即服裝及其飾品在某種程度上可以明顯地反映出當時的時代背景與社會風貌的特色。以判定服裝的年代，且分析畫中人物服裝所代表的意義，不僅僅是鑑定一件藝術品常用到的方法，透過畫中所呈現的，也能勾勒出時尚服飾在過去的歷史與意義。一般而言，個人對於服裝色彩、材質、造型選擇上，除了受到社會道德、文化、風尚制約與影響，也必然會表現出各自的社會地位和審美趣味。本文主旨乃基於西班牙巴洛克時期的宮廷畫家委拉斯蓋茲(Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez, 1599-1660)所繪之五幅瑪格麗特公主的肖像畫(La infanta Margarita Teresa)中所穿著的服裝，來探討這幾幅肖像畫中所蘊含的西班牙宮廷時尚。
The art sociologist Arnold Hauser wrote in his book“The Social History of Art”mentioning “Art is a reflection of life by focusing on a holistic approach to the inner structure of the object in depth.” The so-called art, that is, through the artist’s knowledge and understanding of social life, as well as by the emotions aroused by the life of refraction, to reflect the performance of social life. Likewise, both the style and color of the costumes in each period have their significant cultural features including style, color and process characteristics. It helps us understand the cultural traditions of historic fashion and life states reflected at that time. This means clothing and accessories in a way can clearly reflect the style of the historical background and social characteristics. So as to determine the age of apparel and the meaning of clothing on people portrayed, are not just the method often used to identify a piece of art, but also outlines the history and significance of fashion clothing in the past. Generally, individuals for the clothing color, texture, style selection, in addition to being social morality, culture, fashion constraints and influence will inevitably show their social status and aesthetic tastes. The purpose of this paper is to explore the Spanish royal fashion implied from the clothing of five Princess Margaret (La infanta Margarita Teresa) portraits painted by the Spanish Baroque court painter Velazquez (Diego Rodriguez de Silva y Velazquez ,1599-1660). |
