本實驗是在淡江大學海洋工程實驗室之矩形斷面水槽中進行,水槽全長30公尺,寬0.8公尺,高0.8公尺。造波動力來源是利用平移式造波機來造波,設定不同的坡度、波高、週期及延時,作用於一個固定底床之渠道上。依其波浪作用之後,所造成之海灘地形變化,探討在不同波浪條件、海灘坡度與輸沙量的關係。同時依入射波之波浪尖銳度,研究海灘地形所形成沙洲尖銳度之變化及影響因素。以及在不同延時下各種地形變化的關係。最後並探討光滑定床與粗糙定床對波浪溯升之影響。另外再根據服部、山本、砂村、尾崎等人所採的海灘斷面判斷之經驗式來與本實驗之結果做比較, 並判斷何者的經驗式與本實驗之結果較吻合。 The study is done with a rectangular section of water tank with the sizes of length、width and height is 30m、0.8m and 0.8m , respectively. We make waves with a piston-type wave maker· Then we use different kinds of slopes、wave heights and wave periods pass through the channel with a sandy bed.
During the waves pass by , it will change the bed of the channel. We consider situations among the different wave conditions and slopes to Investigate the sedimentation on this sloping sandy beach.
Finally , we also discuss the effects of smooth fixed-shape bed and rough fixed-shape bed on the wave run-up. We also compared and discussed the equations,which were taken by some researcher with the results of this study.
Relation:
第十六屆海洋工程研討會論文集=Proceedings of the 16th Ocean Enginnering Conference in Taiwan,頁C 171-185