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    Title: 從飲食論述探討臺灣當代飲食文化意涵 : 由九○年代末談起
    Other Titles: Exploring the meaning of contemporary food culture in Taiwan since the late 90's
    Authors: 沈岱樺;Shen, Dai-hua
    Contributors: 淡江大學大眾傳播學系碩士班
    楊明昱;Yang, Ming-yu
    Keywords: 飲食論述;場域;文化中介者;品味;象徵鬥爭;food discourse;Field;cultural intermediaries;taste;symbolic struggle
    Date: 2009
    Issue Date: 2010-01-11 05:18:14 (UTC+8)
    Abstract: 本研究目的是為了更清楚瞭解全民瘋食尚的背後,隱藏了哪些文化意涵以及透過研究進一步地瞭解食物品味是如何被建構的。因此,問題意識在於台灣當代的飲食風貌是如何被呈現、談論的?並援引法國社會學家Bourdieu的「場域」概念,將飲食視為一個文化場域進行探索,並試圖以文化史的書寫方式告訴讀者自六○年代至今的台灣飲食文化風貌呈現為:由懷舊情懷走向生活態度、由烹飪實踐走向生活美學。再透過文化中介者的品味詮釋,瞭解此一詮釋過程的中介活動是如何被進行,以及背後進行詮釋的人是否更鞏固飲食品味的現狀,這即是本論文的研究問題所在。

    研究發現,飲食場域是經過幾十年的努力,不同作用力相互交織或鬥爭,才得已呈現當代此一樣貌。從Bourdieu的理論視野中,理解空間中佔有相同位置或鄰近位置的行動者,會被放置在相似的狀況且受制於相似的制約條件,並因此可能有相似的習性與利益。因此,筆者進一步地從烹飪家、食評家、飲食作家、美食記者等人的飲食相關論述當作分析對象,並視之為文化中介者的成員,為一般大眾生產象徵事物,並且佔據社會空間中上的位置。值得注意的是,一般社會大眾較難去質疑文化中介者的論述,因為文化中介者在贏取象徵權力的同時,也以超然、中立的姿態,確立了象徵暴力的客觀運轉。使人們誤認且認知其正當性與權威性,並掩蓋了深刻潛存之物質條件的不平等與文化資源的分配不均。
    This thesis tries to understand the cultural meanings behind the “food-mania”, and the way how taste of food has been constructed. Therefore, the core problematic is how food scenario is represented and discoursed in contemporary Taiwan? By appropriating the French sociologist Bourdieu’s concept “field”, this thesis hence consider food as a cultural field. Furthermore, from a cultural history approach, this thesis tries to elaborate the food scenario in Taiwan since 60’s: from the nostalgic to lifestyle, and from cooking practice to life aesthetics. Finally, through analyzing the interpretations of taste from the cultural intermediaries, we will realize the way of how interpretations of the cultural intermediaries are constructed and whether these interpretations reproduce or strengthen status quo of the taste of food.

    This thesis argues that it has been through the intertwined and struggled within the different forces for decades, then construct the current situation of food field. From the theoretical point of Bourdieu, agents who have the same social positions in social field will be embedded in the same social conditions and context, in that way then they might have the similar habitus and interests. According to this, the author, by analyzing the food discourse form the chefs, food critics, food writers, and food journalists, argues that these cultural intermediaries produce the symbolic constructs for the popular. However, when cultural intermediaries once won the symbolic power, they also gain the symbolic violence beneath the neutral and objective gesture at the same time, so it is much harder for normal people to critic the discourses of the cultural intermediaries. And that makes people misrecognize the legitimacy and authority as nature, hence that will deeply cover the uneven distribution of material conditions and cultural resources.
    Appears in Collections:[大眾傳播學系暨研究所] 學位論文

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