淡江大學機構典藏:Item 987654321/30055
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    Title: Du pied bande au talon aiguille : La transformation des normes esthetiques a Shanghai dans les annees 1930 selon Le Liangyou huabao
    Other Titles: 從《良友畫報》看上海三○年代女性裹小腳到高跟鞋審美的轉變過程
    From foot binding to high heels : the transformation of the aesthetic norm in Shanghai 1930 according to Liangyou Huabao
    Authors: 康鈺珮;Kang, Yu-pei
    Contributors: 淡江大學法國語文學系碩士班
    蔡淑玲;Tsai, Shu-ling
    Keywords: 裹小腳;高跟鞋;馬甲;上海三○年代;良友畫報;羅蘭巴特;周蕾;李歐梵;後殖民主義;foot binding;high heels;corset;Shanghai 1930;Liangyou huabao;Roland Barthes;Rey Chow;Leo Ou-dan Lee;post-colonialism;pied bande;talon aiguille;corset;Shanghai 1930;Liangyou huabao;Roland Barthes;Rey Chow;Leo Ou-dan Lee;post-colonialisme
    Date: 2007
    Issue Date: 2010-01-10 23:18:59 (UTC+8)
    Abstract: 從後殖民的觀點來看,十九世紀末、二十世紀初,殖民主義意識形態藉由建立國家與發展經濟來建構現代性話語,其目的在於統一大眾的價值觀和權力結構,而較無關於性別或個人。由此我們可以推測,西方審美打著自由與進步的旗號來到中國,其背後所隱藏的卻是殖民主義的形式。從解放女性的角度我們可以發現,解放中國婦女纏足一事改變了沿襲千年以來的中國傳統,從中我們不難看出其隱含的、對中國進行現代化建設的初步野心。我們可以說,推崇西方審美模式的中國知識份子藉由解放婦女的方式對抗舊中國並意圖建立一個嶄新的國家。解放中國婦女是為了建立嶄新的中國的一種手段,得以順應世界和順應時代的潮流。因此,而那個現代的、擁有自主意識的並腳蹬西式高跟鞋的新中國婦女形象讓我們不禁懷疑中國婦女是否真的擁有自主的審美意識。
    本論文透過中國三○年代風靡一時的《良友畫報》來探討中國社會從裹小腳到高跟鞋審美的轉變過程,並論述《良友畫報》中女性主體論述的策略與建立嶄新的中國之間的關連性,並將皆為囚禁女性身體的西方的馬甲文化和中國的纏足文化做橫向比較。論文結構是以羅蘭巴特(Roland Barthes)的流行體系(Systeme de la mode)以及神話學(Mythologies)作為方法論的基石來分析《良友畫報》中的論述策略,並藉由周蕾(Rey Chow)以及李歐梵(Leo Ou-fan Lee)等知名學者的後殖民理論解析近代中國是如何看待女性的身體,而中國女性又是如何在後殖民理論所講述的主體與他者關係中被看作是他者中的他者。
    From the point of view of post-colonialism, the colonialists'' ideology of XIXth and XXth centuries builds the discourse of modernity by the establishment of nation and the economic and technical expansion. The goal of this discourse is the unification of value and of authority''s structure ; it does not relate to sex or difference of individual. In other words, Western esthetics came to China with progress and Western freedom under the form of colonialism. In addition, from the point of view of female freedom, the removal of foot banding which is the Chinese tradition since thousand years is the first stage of Chinese modernization. The movement of releasing Chinese women is a kind of way to create a new China, a method to get rid of the past and to follow the contemporary tendency. We can suppose that China''s intellectuals tried to free from the past and to build a modern nation under pretext of releasing the women. The image of today''s Chinese women which carry high heels of Western style by their own initiative makes it possible for us to doubt the true existence of their subjectivity of esthetics. In this thesis, we try to discuss the driving process from foot banding to high heels to see the transformation of these two standards of beauty through articles of Liangyou huabao, a pictorial publication known in the years 1930, and to talk about the relation between the discourse''s strategy of female subject in Liangyou huabao with the construction of new China nation and to compare Western corset which also harms female body with the practice of the foot banding.
    Appears in Collections:[Graduate Institute & Department of French] Thesis

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