Modeling two-dimensional infragravity motions on a fringing reef

doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.01.111

淡江大學機構典藏 > 工學院 > 水資源及環境工程學系暨研究所 > 期刊論文 > Item 987654321/112795

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題名:	Modeling two-dimensional infragravity motions on a fringing reef
作者:	Shih-Feng Su;Gangfeng Ma
關鍵詞:	Infragravity waves;Edge waves;Circulation;Fringing reef
日期:	2018-04
上傳時間:	2018-03-02 12:12:59 (UTC+8)
摘要:	This study investigates infragravity motions on a two-dimensional fringing reef with a concave topography using a wave-resolving nonlinear Boussinesq wave model. The effect of bathymetric nonlinearity on spatial variations of infragravity waves is studied from shore-normal incident random waves. The model is first verified from cross-shore/alongshore significant wave height, wave setup and infragravity wave height measured in laboratory experiments. The modeled velocity is further examined to elucidate the infragravity-wave current field. Wavenumber-frequency velocity spectra show that cross-shore infragravity motions are controlled by the leaky waves, while alongshore infragravity motions exhibit edge waves characteristics. Additionally, high-mode edge waves prevail on the entire infragravity frequency band while low-mode edge waves are dominant at very low frequencies. Furthermore, the model results illustrate the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced nearshore currents, alongshore and cross-shore flows accompanying with circulation cells and rip currents. The infragavity-wave current field is nearly identical to the mean current field and the circulations develop at the same spatial scale as the reef flat.
關聯:	Ocean Engineering 153, p.256-267
DOI:	10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.01.111
顯示於類別:	[水資源及環境工程學系暨研究所] 期刊論文

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