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    题名: Modeling two-dimensional infragravity motions on a fringing reef
    作者: Shih-Feng Su;Gangfeng Ma
    关键词: Infragravity waves;Edge waves;Circulation;Fringing reef
    日期: 2018-04
    上传时间: 2018-03-02 12:12:59 (UTC+8)
    摘要: This study investigates infragravity motions on a two-dimensional fringing reef with a concave topography using a wave-resolving nonlinear Boussinesq wave model. The effect of bathymetric nonlinearity on spatial variations of infragravity waves is studied from shore-normal incident random waves. The model is first verified from cross-shore/alongshore significant wave height, wave setup and infragravity wave height measured in laboratory experiments. The modeled velocity is further examined to elucidate the infragravity-wave current field. Wavenumber-frequency velocity spectra show that cross-shore infragravity motions are controlled by the leaky waves, while alongshore infragravity motions exhibit edge waves characteristics. Additionally, high-mode edge waves prevail on the entire infragravity frequency band while low-mode edge waves are dominant at very low frequencies. Furthermore, the model results illustrate the spatial and temporal variability of wave-induced nearshore currents, alongshore and cross-shore flows accompanying with circulation cells and rip currents. The infragavity-wave current field is nearly identical to the mean current field and the circulations develop at the same spatial scale as the reef flat.
    關聯: Ocean Engineering 153, p.256-267
    DOI: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2018.01.111
    显示于类别:[水資源及環境工程學系暨研究所] 期刊論文

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