| Abstract: | 唐魯孫先生於一九七二年以一篇文章〈吃在北平〉引起眾多的讀者回響。從一九七六年到一九八三年八月間，唐魯孫書寫將近百萬餘字，成為一位多產作家。作品內容百分之七十是談美食，文采非但一流，而且自成一格，量多質精，堪稱一代雜文大家。一篇篇關於飲食記憶與懷舊的文學創作陸續發表，集結成十二冊的文集，可說是開當代飲食書寫之先。唐魯孫走遍海內外，並嘗遍大江南北奇珍異食，其豐富的飲食經驗，加上本身對飲食獨到的見解，將味覺的記憶化為文字的敘述。歷來對於唐魯孫作品的「美食書寫」對象及具體內容未能加以整理歸納。因此筆者在已有的研究基礎上，以「唐魯孫美食書寫研究」為題，對其筆下的美食記憶中的一道道佳餚書寫作歸納、整理、與分類。期能更深入探究唐魯孫美食書寫的記憶拼圖。
本論文共分為六章，第一章「緒論」，分別說明筆者的研究動機、研究範圍及文獻回顧。第二章「北平鄉味美食書寫」，以「飯食」、「麵食」、「茶點」「蔬果」四部分來探討唐魯孫對於品嚐家鄉美食的獨特之見解。第三章「大江南北美食書寫」，以「天上飛的美食書寫」、「水中游的美食書寫」、「地上走的美食書寫」三部分來探討唐魯孫對於走訪各地所品嚐的美食經驗與評價。第四章「宮廷、節慶、總匯美食書寫」，以「宮廷美食」、「滿漢全席」、「中國節慶美食書寫」、「總匯美食書寫」四部分，呈現唐魯孫對宮廷美食與節慶美食詳實地描述與總匯美食獨特的品嚐經驗。第五章「美食典故與食療書寫」，以「美食典故書寫」、「美食食療書寫」來探討唐魯孫筆下一道道的美食佳餚中，背後不為人知的典故與歷史故事及食療經驗。第六章「結論」，藉由唐魯孫的美食書寫，我們可以窺見跨越台灣與中國大陸；從清代到當代的美食佳餚，從中可以看到北方人的美食種類與飲食習性，以及對美食宴饗的堅持與原則，了解到各種美食的烹調過程及吃法。
In 1972, Mr. Tang Lu-Sun’s prose, entitled “ My Gourmetical Experience in Peking”, caused quite a stir among readers. From 1976 to 1983,his writings were approximately one million words, making him a prolific writer. 70 percent of his writings are devoted to foods, while the other 30 deal with folk anecdotes. His writings are not only first-class and unique in quality but also plentiful in quantity. He can be said a master of essays in the history of modern Chinese literature. His writings on gourmetical arts and nostalgia were constantly released in twelve volumes. He is the pioneer writer of gourmetical literature. Mr. Tang traveled around the world and made a lot of friends. His experiences in culinary arts, coupled with his unequaled insights, were converted into vivid narrations. However, it is a pity that his writings are not studied in a systematic way. Therefore, I, based on the existing materials, study Mr. Tang’s works in my thesis entitled “ A Study of Tang Lu-Sun’s Gourmetical Writings” to reorganize and sort his works for foods.
The thesis is divided into six chapters. The first chapter is a brief introduction of my motivation, research coverage and the materials I cite. The second chapter, “The Gourmetical Writings in Peking” consists of four parts: “ rice cuisine”, “ pasta”, “ tea time refreshments”, “ fruits and vegetables” to discuss the unique perspectives on Mr. Tang’s hometown cuisine. The third chapter, “ The Gourmentical Writings All Around The World” comprises three parts: “ Delicacies from The Air”, “Delicacies in The Water”, “Delicacies on The Land”, explores Mr. Tang’s reviews and essays based on his traveling experiences. The subsequent chapter, “ Fine Foods in Court And Festivities”, reveals Mr. Tang’s detailed description of royal and festival foods with the following four parts: “ Royal Delicacies”, “ The Manchu & Han Imperial Feast”, “ Chinese Festive Delicacies” and “The Confluence of Delicacies”. “ Cuisine Allusions” and “ Therapeutic Effects of Foods” make up chapter five, which reveals the unknown historical allusions, anecdotes and therapeutic effects behind each delicacy. The final is the conclusion. Through Tang Lu-Sun’s gourmetical writings, beyond Taiwan and China we can have a glimpse of Chinese northerners’ varieties of foods, culinary habits and their insistence on dietary principles from Qing Dynasty to contemporary times. |
