| Abstract: | 受邀為羅威傳統絲巾創作的西班牙新銳藝術家，卡洛斯‧馬西亞(Carlos
Macia, 1977-)表示：「時尚與藝術表面上看似為二元式對立的兩個個體，但
長久以來兩者皆以環環相扣的複雜密切合作模式存在著。｣藝術能使時尚服
飾的表現更為寬廣，它如同一個重要媒介，可以支撐並表現出時尚服飾更深
層的意涵以及創作者的概念。本論文以法國學者羅蘭‧巴特(Roland Barthes,
1915-1980)，在所著之《流行體系－符號學與服飾符碼》中提到的流行時裝
轉形作用為研究依據，將轉形作用中的轉換語－西班牙文化元素，透過與西
班牙時尚品牌羅威(LOEWE)服飾的結合，呈現出帶有濃厚西班牙藝術文化風
情的時尚服飾，為筆者的研究對象。此外，本文並以羅威官方提供的服飾目
錄及照片，利用圖文並述來印證與對照，探討當藝術文化遇見流行時尚後，
蘊含在時尚表象下的深層意涵。
本文共分為五章。第一章為緒論，說明研究動機與目的、研究理論與方
法、研究範圍與限制與文獻探討。第二章以羅威時尚服飾“Tauromaquia”絲巾系列、2012“Granada”秋冬手袋系列以及2010“LOEWE-Macia”絲巾系列中的西班牙文化元素，擷取代表「傳統｣裝束中的鬥牛士華麗服飾細節、南部格拉那達(Granada)「經典｣城市建築意象與「當代｣藝術－西班牙新銳藝術家馬西亞的個人創作背景及特色為西班牙藝術文化風貌的研究重點。本文以羅威的時尚服飾為研究對象，因此在第三章節中將針對西班牙品牌羅威的歷史沿革與品牌現況、品牌傳統手藝與上乘皮革以及羅威與西班牙土地及藝術文化作詳細探討。第四章節為羅威品牌服飾中的西班牙特質，筆者將從第二章節中的西班牙藝術文化風貌與羅威時尚服飾進行印證。第五章為結論，總結以上各章要義，並從藝術與時尚交融後所迸發出的精彩火花中，經由筆者研究得到：(一)、西班牙精神的呈現、(二)、藝術結合時尚的觀賞新視野以及(三)、「行動藝廊｣的生活美學，更看見當藝術文化元素透過轉形後，在與時尚緊密的結合之下，不僅讓彼此的創作表現變得更為寬廣，也淬煉出時尚服飾中的高度藝術價值與深層文化內涵表現。
Carlos Macia, who is an emerging artist and just invited by LOEWE to create their traditional scarf says:“Ostensibly, fashion and art are dualistic; however, they have strong connection with each other for a long time.” Art can make the performance of fashionable dress broader, as an important medium that can not only support but show the deeper meaning of fashionable dress and the concept of the creator. This essay is based on the Roland Barthes’s work: The Fashion System. The transfer words I focus on in this essay are “elements of Spanish culture”, which through the combination with the clothing of Spanish fashion brand LOEWE, presenting the costume with strong Spanish art culture and amorous feelings. Moreover, by using the official catalogue and photos from LOEWE, this paper will prove and contrast the deeper meaning behind the surface of fashion when art and culture face to the fashion.
This thesis consists of five chapters. The first chapter is the introduction, description of the motivation and purpose, research foundation and method, scope and limitation and literature review. The second chapter takes the scarf collection of “Tauromaquia”, handbag collection of “2012 Granada”, and scarf collection of “2010 LOEWE-Macia” from LOEWE costume for example. This chapter will focus on the elements of Spanish culture: retrieving the bullfighter’s “traditional” but magnificent detailed costume, the Granada’s “classical” image of architecture in the south, and the “contemporary” art artist Carlos Macia’s creative background and characteristic. The third chapter will show LOEWE’s history, traditional craft and current situation at first; then, the connection between LOEWE and Spanish art and culture will be discussed in detail. The Spanish peculiarity in LOEWE’s costume will show up in the forth chapter, and demonstrates Spanish art and culture, which are mentioned in the second chapter. The conclusion is in the fifth chapter. Summarizing these five chapters, this research can conclude with three points: the presentation of the Spanish spirit, the new vision between the fashion and art, and, the lifestyle of “moving gallery”. Furthermore, the combination between art, culture, and the fashion, not only make their works’ performances broader, but also refine the art value and the deep culture meaning from costume. |
